1953 Chevrolet pickup 3800 (1 ton) with 235 engine and 12 volt electrical system

Yes, I know - it's getting out of control. But how could I pass this one up? I drove out to Brush and took a look at it, and was surprised by the generally nice condition of this 1953 3800 1 ton. Nice box, and it looked like the original wood was underneath a metal plate that was spot welded into the bed. The black painted grill was flawless. Definitely some minor parts missing, and as usual I couldn't be sure that the engine would start, but it did turn easily (I determined this by grabbing the flywell underneath, which was exposed due to missing bell-housing bottom cover). Several items were obviously gone: starter, generator, and voltage regulator. And a few water heater hoses. I got the engine serial number and found out it was a later 235 engine - from a 1958-1962. Must have been dropped in somewhere along the line. Odometer said 60,000. Needed door glass. The price was fair, and a title that might be transferable was supplied. And so it was delivered, around April 20, 2007.

On my trip out west I picked up a 12 V starter ($25), a generator ($25), and a clean gas tank (free!, thanks to Bob in Albany, Oregon) for Clayton, my '51 3600. I had neglected to check the voltage of the system before I left town but my hunch was correct: 12 volt.

Now that I'm home and have had a chance to fiddle around with it, I've noticed several things. First, wasps make nests in engine compartments. Second, I need a key. Third, cardboard does not hold up as a temporary window. Fourth, all I need is a 12-volt voltage regulator, some oil, a 12-volt coil, and some new plugs to see if it will start. Should I remove the carb and rebuild it? Not sure, maybe. I'd like to see if it cranks first.

I tested the starter before installing - cranks fine. Need spring for starter pedal, and makeshift linkage. Will remove battery cable from the '63 and use that. Will hotwire ignition switch or try to use other keys. I believe the electrical system is in good shape. Might install generator and voltage regular to see if running light come on. Probably try to find used voltage regulator, or try to use old one from the '63. Will drain and replace oil, replace plugs, install new 12 v. coil or temporarily use the one from Clayton. Check points. Rig up temp gas line and can. Then ... see what happens. Hopefully we'll get some pistons firing. I'm prepared for the worst. A 3800 pickup (1 ton) with good bed and box is hard to find. Oh - the front bumper bracket is broken, but can be welded. Also, one good hub cap came with it - the final one I needed for Clayton. In fact, that sealed the deal.

The new addition looks a lot like a truck that sold on eBay, though not in as good condition; the grill isn't crome, but the black color and bed length is the same. With new door glass and a paint job, some minor repairs, and complete hub caps, my truck would look very similar to this one: Picture 1 and Picture 2. (Note: these two pics are NOT my truck). This truck (a 6-volt 1950, runs but burns oil, brakes bad and water pump loose) sold for $2100 on eBay. If I can get mine to start and move, I could probably get $1200 for it.

 

June 2, 2007. Went to Martin's Supply - found a 12 Volt voltage regulator for $10. Went over to Severance and installed it, took some pictures. Sometime next week I'll install the starter, replace plugs and oil, switch out the coil and battery cable from elsewhere, and see if it does anything.

June 20. Not much accomplished on the trucks. I just sold the '63 C-20 for $400. It's turning hot now, after a rainy spring. Will need to rent another two months at the storage place in Severance ($56). Have a lot of events coming up, so not much time to work on the trucks.

July 12, 2007. At this stage, I've made some progress. I installed the 12-volt starter and confirmed it has the right teeth spacing, so all is well. The two spark plugs I looked at didn't look fowled, just standard carbon. I had the ignition switch keyed ($18) at the locksmith in Fort Collins.

Took some pictures. The front driver side tire is flat, so it looks a little cock-eyed, I put cardboard in the side windows, and I removed the 3800 hood emblems, for fear of theft. Here it is:

Original paint was green; some kind of tool box fixture on the side (gas can holder); front bumper bracket cracked near bumper (an easy weld job).

Note side mount tire; front tire flat; body has almost zero dents and no major ones; grill pieces are flawless; minor ding on back fender. Missing one wiper arm.

Four decent tires in bed - included! There was one remaining "Chevrolet" hubcap in decent condition that I claimed for Clayton. The side windows seem to have been removed, rather than broken. This is a somewhat rare 1 ton, with a 9-foot bed. The wood in the bed is visible from below and looks solid - a huge metal plate was spot welded into the bed, but it would be interesting to see the condition of the original wood, considering it was protected. They might look this good:

The inside needs work:

Overall condition of inside cab not too bad - dash cut at radio; glove box latch missing. The seat can be repaired, like I did with Clayton's seat (it's in better condition than Clayton's was). The doors close and latches are operational.

The engine could be worse - it looks like it had been cannibalized for parts - starter, generator, voltage regulator, ignition coil, radiator hoses gone. I already have replacements on these, total cost $60. I'm not sure if this means the engine was dead, or someone just prioritized another vehicle because the old beast wouldn't start (for whatever reason). The engine is a 235 oil pressuring engine whose ID number checks to, I think, a 58-62 manufacturing year, so this was clearly put in later. This explains the VIN / ID title mix up - a Missouri title - which I may or may not be able to sort out and get transferred correctly. The air filter pan was missing (I covered the carb). I'm going to try to be frugal on this start-up effort - I'll drain oil, replace with new oil ($10). I'll clean the plugs, use Clayton's 12 volt coil, find a battery cable, and use the spare 12 volt battery. I'll see what happens with starter fluid. If necessary, I'll switch in Clayton's plug wires and plugs.

The wiring system is solid and complete, but I'm unsure if my salvaged voltage regulator will work. It will be interesting to see if, with my functioning key & ignition switch, I can get running lights up, and see what works.

July 13, 2007. Found several items at the salvage yard in Greeley. Two "3100" emblems, one "Chevrolet" emblem, perfect condition. A battery cable, a big bolt driver's side mirror, little pieces and springs for the starter assembly, a vintage Viking warrior statue (an old lamp) that will make a cool lawn ornament - all for $20. So, I need to borrow the 12-volt coil from Clayton, bring the battery and oil drain pan, buy some oil, and see what happens. Maybe tomorrow morning. Need to clean the plugs.

Update: Had some time so I went to Severance this evening, installed parts to power up the '53. Took about 30 minutes. After I connected the battery, got some dash lights, cab light, and turn signal operating! No headlights, though. I couldn't resist stomping on the starter foot pedal, but it didn't do anything. I could push the button on the starter manually and get it to spin, but it wasn't engaging the flywheel. (The flywheel - and, I assume, the engine - can be made to turn underneath the truck). I ran out of daylight and am looking into it - posted question on Stovebolt. I have another starter (not the foot pedal type) that I could use, if all else fails.

July 14. Went over to Severance around 6:30 p.m., tried the starter again. No go. I couldn't figure out how the thing engages, so I took it off and confirmed that the lever mechanically engages the flywheel gear. So, there's no reason why it shouldn't crank the engine. With some difficulty and daylight waning, I put it back on, push the lever forward with my hand, and it engaged! I cranked the engine a few times this way. I already removed two sparks plugs, and there are good puffs of air coming out --- good compression. The foot pedal works now too. I think I simply didn't have the battery connected securely, so if I pushed the button manually, it would spin the starter easily with no load, not engaging. But when I pushed the foot pedal in the cab, it would engage but there wasn't a good enough connection and the juice would just fail. Anyway, the oil is about a half quart low - the oil didn't even look so bad. I wonder if someone recently replaced it. That might not be a good sign. The engine cranks without the key being turned on. I assume the ignition needs to be turned on if one expects the points and plugs to fire. I think it's worth changing the oil and cleaning the plugs. I'll see what happens at the carb with starter fluid. If he fires, then I'll get a $14 carb rebuild kit.

A guy on Stovebolt said that the little can with three electrical posts on my $25 starter is a polarity reverse switch for the points. It's not needed.

July 15. No spark at plug, so currently I have an unsolved problem at the distributor. I didn't have much time to troubleshoot. There's some talk of a ground wire that might need to happen off the distributor. I didn't bother to replace plugs or wire or clean the points - the cap looked good. I'm being a little lazy, and maybe something's not getting checked. The engine and replacement starter cranks good. I need to bring a volt meter over and checks some circuits. Could be the condenser, I suppose. The coil should work - it works on Clayton.

July 17. Replaced wires, plugs, cap. Couldn't get into the terminal for replacing the condenser and points. So, no go on starting. All these parts = $38.

July 18. Undid the inset screw on the outer distributor with a needle nose pliers, replaced points and condenser. Got a few chugs out of it - it would probably start except that the starter gear kicks out too soon, and the vaccum advance is broken (the distributor swivels). Anyway, this is progress! Might need to replace the starter, or take it apart and fix something inside it. Will try to clean battery contacts and power up the battery, maybe jump it with my car to add some juice and keep the gear from retracting - that's the advice from Stovebolt.

July 18. It's alive! Sort of. Went over there this evening and boosted the battery with a jump start. Played with throttle and choke setting. This was all done with starting fluid, as I forgot the gas can, which I think was the main drawback to getting a solid run. It did "start" nine or ten times, usually for only a second or two. But twice it ran for a good five seconds before, I presume, running out of starter fluid. It's loud, smokey, and sparky! The muffler pipe is disconnected below the carb, and I think that's why it's loud. It probably needs to have the timing adjusted, too, and maybe the points readjusted. Anyway, I think it should be a runner. I'll clean the carb out and get some gas running into it. Then I'll connect the ignition circuit through the ignition switch. The vacuum advance is broken, but the one from the old distributor still seems viable. However, I'll need to take the distributor out to bolt it on, which could upset the timing if I reinstall it wrong. May wait on that.

July 19. An interesting and productive two hours working on ... on ... I thought his name would come but it doesn't seem to be there yet. I wanted to emphasize gas and steer clear of starter fluid today. I took the top off the carb and noticed that all the critical parts inside were moving okay. I wondered if the carb might actually work. With the top off, I filled the bowl with gas. Had to play with the throttle and choke setting. With a *little* starter fluid he fired up quick and ran for about 10 seconds. I didn't get a chance to manually move the throttle or choke before he cut off. He started briefly a few more times; I began pouring gas right into the carb, but that seemed to flood him out. He didn't do much, and I kept cranking the starter by pulling the starter / foot pedal lever inside the engine compartment. I eventually realized that the gas needed to be put right into the bowl, necessitating taking the carb's top off everytime - no big deal, though. When I committed to doing that, and decided to try to use the systems that were designed to be used, I connected the gas pedal to the throttle, filled the carb bowl, and jumped in the cab. I pretended that the carb and gas pedal were going to work, and lo and behold, they did and do! The first run went about 40 seconds. The engine was responsive to the gas pedal, speeding up and slowing down. I think I had the choke open too wide, so adjusted that. Then I removed the carb top quickly (four screws), filled up the bowl, and replaced the top. Without starter fluid, he started up and I refrained from throttling it - he was running a little smoother anyway. Ran for almost a minute before running out of gas. Now we were making progress! I fiddled around for a bit, cleaning out the messy cab, preparing for the inevitable day when I'll try to get him into gear and move around the storage yard. Yes, it now seems clear that such a day will be possible. Buying an old truck in this state of advanced neglect is such a huge wild card - you never know what the situation is with the engine. As far as I'm concerned, if the engine doesn't start, you got a lemon and might as well dump it cheap. But this time, as with Clayton, I was able to revive him from the brink of oblivion. And there, my friends, is his name: Lazarus. I think so ... yeah ... Lazarus. I've seen trucks on ebay, "engine stuck," or hasn't run for twenty years and so on. Those are pretty far gone. With Lazarus, someone removed vital parts, chewed off his mechanical flesh and left him for dead, but there was life in him yet. Just needed some TLC and focused problem solving. When I checked him out in Brush, I was able to confirm that the engine wasn't stuck. That was a good sign. I think the points and condenser ($13) were the clincher in reviving him from death. And the starter, of course ($25). In retrospect, the other improvements were just icing on the cake.

So, the third and final run went equally well. It was now about 7 p.m. I filled the carb bowl again - really full - I jumped in the cab, pumped the gas pedal and hit the starter pedal. It took two tries but he fired up. I intentionally let him idle slow to conserve gas. I noticed the engine temp was up to 180 degrees (there's no antifreeze in him and hoses are missing). He ran solid for just over minute and then ran out of gas. I'm happy that the carb is functioning! It totally responds to the pedal. This is more than I would have expected. No need for rebuilding, right now anyway. In some ways he's in better shape than Clayton was. The broken vacuum advance doesn't seem to effect his performance at this point - but probably will at higher speeds. The final wild card that could be a big hassle is the clutch. Does it work? The brakes, I'm assuming, are shot. But even there, if I was to rebuild the master cylinder ($20) and just bleed the lines, maybe they would work okay. The transmission shifts through all gears, just like Clayton did. The clutch pedal seems ineffectual, just like Clayton's did, but it worked fine, so I'm not so worried.

The next step is to rig up a gas feed system. In my experience, the lines, gas filter, and maybe the pump are probably mucked up. But maybe not. If I was to use the Clayton system, I could feed gas into the line before the gas pump, and that would get pumped into the carb bowl. The carb seems to work okay. Tomorrow I'll try to rig that up, and replace the filter (I have a spare). Then I'll try to adjust and fine tune the choke and idle. After that, I have to fix the front flat. Getting those lug nuts off has been a hassle. I got three loosened the other day, but the others are proving difficult. I think I have a spare that holds air, but will have to check it. A propane torch might be enlisted to loosen the lug nuts. Ideally, I can then bring online the ignition switch and other electrical components, although I'm not convinced my junkyard voltage regulator is going to work. Another critical thing is the coolant system. I must get hoses and antifreeze in place if I expect the engine to run and idle for long periods. That fix-it could run $30 or so.

Update July 20. Good news / bad news. I devised a simple plan for testing the fuel pump. Long story short - the fuel pump works! so it will draw from a gas can placed prior to the fuel pump. It thus feeds the functioning carb, although the carb leaks a little around the gasket that was compromised in the act of taking the top off, to add fuel to the bowl. Now I don't need to do that, but will need a new gasket. I installed the big bottom hose for the radiator, and loopholed the heater. So the coolant system is now self contained. However, there is a pretty bad leak where I believe the water pump is located. That will have to be fixed, I suppose. The engine started, ran a little rough and smokey, due to choke setting and problem the timing. I ran it for one minute the first time, while testing the fuel pump. Then, after connectin in the fuel line, I ran it for a good two minutes or so. Then, a short time later, another two minutes or so. Definitely needs some adjustment in fuel /air mixture. The broken vacuum advance is probably not helping much. I noiced the oil pressure was off the chart - more than 30 psi. However, I think this can be explained by the fact that the oil pressuring 235 was installed later, and the gauge from this '53 is designed for the babbitt and only goes up to 30. An oil pressure engine is suppose to pressure at 10 psi per 1000 rpms. I was running it sort of high to keep it going, but maybe something's wrong. Maybe too much oil in the cranckcase? By the third long run, and with the water leaking (I didn't use coolant), the engine temp was above 180, so I stopped running it. Got a little discouraged, and am running out of time as my Guatemala trip is approaching. Also, I couldn't get a response from the clutch - it will go into gear with engine running but the clutch isn't engaging. Nothing. That's a bummer. The trans may be shot. Here's new pics of the engine compartment with new wires, etc:

July 24. Some thoughts and discoveries. The coolant leak is coming from the water pump, and that will need to be replaced. Doesn't look technically difficult and I should be able to pick one up at the salvage yard for $20 or so. I realized that a lever on the carb was missing - between the throttle and the choke. I replaced it with the compatible piece from the carb I bought in Arizona in January. Now the idle action should work. Now, for that clutch and shifting issue. The main conceptual difficulty I'm having involves being able to shift the transmission through all the gears while the engine is running, without operating the clutch (which is ineffectual anyway). In its undepressed state the clutch engages the engine to the transmission, which is connected directly to the drive axle. Only upon depressing the clutch will it become disengaged, enabling shifting through gears. Engine - clutch - trans - axle. If the trans is in neutral, a slight drag will cause the rear wheels to spin slowly if they are free, indicating that motive energy is through-put from engine to trans. I can't figure out where the disconnect is occurring. I do know that the clutch pedal doesn't seem to be disengaging the clutch very far - it needs adjustment to work properly, but that still doesn't explain the problem.

All the lug nuts are loose on the flat front tire, and I'm going to test the spare to see if it holds air.

July 25. Started it up this morning. Started quickly - the carb linkage definitely helps. It seems to run best with choke open. I adjusted the throttle after it warmed up a bit - incredibly, I can bring the idle down very low and the engine chugs along fine. Responds strongly to the gas pedal - strong engine. It will sound better when I reconnect the muffler pipe with new gasket - currently it is disconnected. I think the oil pressure sensor is broken - it just goes above 30 psi and stays there, no matter what, even at low idle. The trans / clutch issue is a great mystery and may prove to involve more than I'm willing to tackle. It seems like the gear shifter is engaging different gears in the trans, but there's no connection with the engine, so I suspect the clutch plate or something in the interface between clutch and trans. In 1987 or so I removed the clutch from my '69 Dodge van and had Bird's Brake & Clutch in Elmhurst reface it. This required disconnecting the axle and hoisting back the trans in order to get in there, but I did it myself. Something like that may be necessary. For now, I'm done and the next move will have to wait until mid August.

August 30, 2007. Water pump will need to be replaced. I'm looking at one on eBay that I hope to get for $10. I replaced the front driver's side tire, and it's holding air. Had it started a few times this month. After the camper next to it was moved out, I was able to get some decent side pictures:

I was amazed when this old pickup sold on Ebay for $2700.

Well, not much time to work on Lazarus this summer. Will try to replace the water pump sometime soon, so the engine can be tuned up at running engine temp. Then, that clutch / transmission issue will have to be investigated.

Update. The summer is gone! Made a little progress - bought a nice remanufactured water pump on eBay for $10. Gasket was $1.29, purchased locally at Checker. The fitting for the heater hose had to purchased, too: $7 at Napa. So, I'm ready now to install this water pump, and it should go smooth. Then, I'll be able to fill the radiator, start and run the engine continuously. However, it would be a good idea to buy a carb rebuild kit to use the gaskets, as it seems to leak around the carb, which I've separated from the bowl several times. Weather is turning cold, though.

October 25, 2007. Progress, at last. Yesterday was a nice day, so I went out to Severance and began to attempt to install the water pump. I would also be installing a new (old) generator, and I realized I needed some mounting bolts. Nothing much got done. Today, I was prepared with everything and managed to get over there around 1 pm. I felt rushed and dove right into it, planning to install the water pump, fan, belt, generator, and reconnect the hoses, etc. It was a wrestling match getting the puller and fan attached, but within an hour and a half I was ready to hit the foot starter. I primed it with some starter fluid, and ZOOM! Started right up. Lot's of blue smoke, chugging, but settled into a fast idle and I just let him run. Within a minute I figured I could pour water into the radiator, check for leaks, and see if the engine temperature would stabilize. (Last time he ran, three months ago, engine temp went way high within a few minutes). Something must have changed, as he ran a good 8 minutes or so before the carb flooded and he chugged out. That's probably just sticky points or floats. Clayton still does that sometimes. Before that happened, I had him idling smooth at a low idle. Tonight I'll return before dark and start him up again, time it, and take some quick video. If that clutch problem wasn't a mystery, I could get him into gear take him for a spin. Hopefully that problem is not as serious as it seems.


old and new water pump

October 26, 2007. Ran for 15 solid minutes, engine temp stable. The clutch or whatever it is, behind the missing bell housing plate, spins. I noticed some rattling in the trans area, and believe there may be a broken part in the trans. But it's still really hard to say. It was nice to have a stable, running 235 engine. The rebuild includes a new (rebuilt) water pump ($22), a vintage generator replacement ($25), a vintage starter replacement ($25), a vintage voltage regulator, points, plugs, wires, and borrowed coil from my '51. It looks like I will need to investigate the transmission / clutch issue. Proof! The Video. (A quicktime MPG, about 10 seconds long).

October 28, 2007. This is a strong and reliable 235 engine, no doubt. I connected up all the electrical systems, instead of bypassing the key ignition as I've been doing. The headlights both work, though the dash switch is a little intermittent. The horn works! Cab light and dash light works, turn signals were working last time I tried it. So, with the generator polarized according to the book, and ignition on, Lazarus fired right up. After warming up a bit he idles strong forever. Engine temp is stable. I can switch him off at the key, wait 2 minutes or five minutes or ten minutes and he fires right back up without any help from the starter fluid. He ran about twenty minutes total today.

October 29. Problem diagnosed! It became an inescapable issue - I would have to pull the transmission and the clutch. My hunch was that the clutch was broken. Following some helpful instructions from a Shop Shark at Stovebolt, I removed the shaft:


U-joint at transmission - removed to get at the clutch

Next, I removed the four bolts holding on the transmission, and the floor plate for the trans housing. I left the shifter on, and assembled a scaffolding of boards under the trans. This allowed me to slide the trans toward the back.



A DIY job? Transmission removal from above and below

I let it rest off to the side without pulling the trans down or out, since if the clutch was the problem, I could just slide the trans back in after I fixed the clutch. The shifter is holding it steady against the corner of the housing - it's not going anywhere. Next, I removed the nine or so bolts from the clutch plate / flywheel. I did this all the way around carefully in a sequence. The clutch gave up the ghost:

Now the question is, how much of this can be salvaged? The little axle sleeve is broken (above), and obviously the clutch disc's facing needs to be redone. I was surprised at how quickly the process went, and fairly painlessly for what seemed a major operation. It was a two swear-word job.

Confirmation and action taken - After some research I determined that I need a 10-spline 10 3/4" clutch disc. Found an unused NOS one on eBay for $35 plus $9 shipping. That's about as good as it gets. The little broken piece is an oil-impregnated pilot bearing/bushing. I can get it at Checker for $2. With very little doubt in my mind, this is going to solve the problem, and Lazarus will ride again.

Tomorrow, I'm going to try something with the brakes. I'll bring some brake fluid and simply try to bleed them out, one at a time. Sometimes the wheel cylinders lock up, which is probably going to be the case, but it's worth a try. If I can get the brakes operational, even if squishy, then I will have brought Lazarus to an operational state that I couldn't have expected before the cold winds blow.

Other items. Voltage regulator. Oil spill in bed. 12 volt coil (internally resisted).

October 30. This morning I checked the flywheel plate - it is clean and undamaged. I ordered the pilot bearing/bushing ($1.85). I cleaned the pickup's bed. I also dove into the brakes. In the hopes that the lines would not be gunked up, and the wheel cylinders won't be stuck, I opened the brake bleeder valves, poured brake fluid into the reservoir. I noted that the master cylinder was not corroded as the one on Clayton was. There was no corrosion at the wheel cylinders either. Prognosis looked good. I did a standard brake line bleed all the way around, pumping the brake pedal for each cylinder. Brake fluid was observed bleeding from each valve. Closing up all the valves, the pedal pumps firm. We will see if the cylinders themselves are going to push the brake shoes - my hunch from the condition of the system is that we will have one or two working, enough for tooling around the storage yard. I anxiously await the NOS clutch disc to arrive, and then the last operation will commence - perhaps a three-hour job. Then, Lazarus will have 1) a running, reliable, stable motor; 2) restored drive train with new clutch disc; 3) partially functioning brakes; 4) electrical system partially up with key ignition functioning (not sure on voltage regulator and generator). Fixing the drive train cost a lot less than I thought it might - less than $50.

November 13. One day to do Mission Impossible, and the hard part has been accomplished! Got over to the storage yard around 12:30. The weather is holding out for one final day - in the 60's today. So I lined up all my tools, the clutch disc, cleaned the bolts and dove in. I popped in the pilot bushing first - no problem. It was a pain getting the clutch disc centered as I tightened the nine bolts all the way around. First, it was a jigsaw getting the heavy clutch housing lifted into place while holding the clutch disc more or less in place, as the clutch lever was a bit in the way. I had to back that off a little, and then, later, even more so I could get the throw-out bearing in. But, first things first. After getting a few bolts started on the clutch, it was a back and forth process, under the truck, in the cab, centering and tightening. It seemed fairly well centered, and I had maybe five bolts tightened half way down. Then, the throw-out bearing. I realized that it was a tight fit between the clutch lever and the clutch housing so I clamped the housing bolts down even more to draw the clutch housing closer in. And I backed off the lever too, which was a pain. Got the throw-out greased and in. Now the REAL pain - easing the transmission into the splines and pushing it forward. I had the trans hoisted on boards, about even with the clutch, but the thing weighs a ton. After wrestling with it in the cab, I crawled underneath and leg pressed the trans forward while levering it up and even with a board. Still, you have to wiggle the thing to get it to go forward, hoping that the trans shaft slipped into the splines correctly, otherwise your efforts will be wasted. Somehow, after about a half-hour I got it to go forward. Then, to close the gap, more cranking and wiggling, till I could get a bolt in. That was more difficult than removing the clutch and trans a few weeks ago. Next, I tightened up the clutch bolts and the four trans bolts, adjusted the clutch pedal a little. I still need to attach the drive shaft at the trans, but ran out of time today. I was dying to know if the clutch would work and the trans would spin - if drive energy from the engine would go through the clutch, so I attached battery and gas and then started then engine. The trans output spun, went through gear speed changes with shifting, and would shift into reverse too. Looks like all is well. The clutch pedal might need a little more adjustment, but success! I wish I didn't have to go to L.A. tomorrow. Looks like I have a driver, and the brakes might even work - they are pumped up and holding, I just don't know if the wheel cylinders are locked up or not. Home on the 18th, hopefully a few more nice days are in store so I can go for a spin.

I need to reconnect the drive shaft, reattach the exhaust pipe so it isn't hanging, and off we go.

November 16. Lazarus lives! (and even drives). Today the weather remained nice in Colorado. Returned from L.A. early this morning, 1:00 a.m. Slept for six hours. Got over to Severance by noon. Reconnecting the drive shaft was a bit of a struggle. Clamped the exhaust pipe tight to the manifold, and rehung the muffler. I rigged a small gas can in the engine compartment, anticipating that the beast would actually be moving. Started Lazarus up, but he was running rough. I fiddled with the carb/choke/throttle/mixture settings. I put him in first and reverse and could feel he would move in both directions. I pulled him forward a few feet, then backed him straightly into the spot. By then the engine temp was hot, as I had drained the water out last week during a cold snap, so I turned him off. Went home, filled four gallon jugs with water, returned in about an hour. Got everything situated, started him up, warmed up, idling smooth at 180° F, and pulled him forward. I went back and forth a few times, turned down the gravel driveway, backed up, didn't get him into second gear for fear he might die far from his parking spot. Backed him in, idled for another ten minutes or so. This is a good start. After I realized something was wrong with the drivetrain, I never thought I'd get it fixed before the cold weather, but here it's done, for less than $50. As for the brakes, unfortunately they leaked at the front passenger wheel cylinder, so they are not holding. What's next? Continue restoring, or sell? Here's what it is....

1953 Chevrolet Pickup 3800 (1 ton). Original green; repainted black. Nine-foot bed, original wood underneath large metal plate. Headlights work, some dashlights and cab light works, horn works. Engine starts right up reliably with foot pedal and key ignition and runs strong; can idle smooth at very low idle. It's a 235 inline 6, serial numbers dating to 1959-1962 era, so is the later oil pressure type. All stock, including NOS clutch disc I just installed. New pilot bushing. Stock starter installed, voltage regulator, and stock generator installed. Not sure if system is charging - if not, it may be the old voltage regulator I put in, or the generator may need to be rebuilt or replaced. I installed a remanufactured water pump. It is leaking a little at the cheap paper gasket. Installed new points, plugs, distributer cap, rotor, coil and wires. The carb has not been rebuilt, since it seems to work fine, but it leaks a little at the gasket after I took the bowl off once. A $15 rebuild kit will solve this problem, probably by simply using the gasket that is provided. The vacuum advance on the distributer should be replaced. The radiator does not leak. Brake lines are holding brake fluid. The one issue seems to be at the front passenger wheel cylinder, where fluid is leaking after I had the system pressured up and bled for a few days. A rebuild kit is $10, but new pads should be installed too as fluid probably leaked on them. The other wheel cylinders may be fine, and the master cylinder is good. The truck needs the two door windows and maybe the regulator mechanisms. There are two dings in the driver's-side windshield and driver's vent window is cracked. The seat could use some filler and a seat cover. Cab corners are rusted out, and floor areas are also rusty. However, the body and general condition of the truck is excellent - only very minor dents in only a few places. The grill is flawless. Shocks probably need to be replaced. The tires hold air on split rims all around, including the side spare. I have the signed title from previous owner, and will transfer into my name as a Colorado title. Based on comps, I'd value this truck in its current condition and state of restoration at $1800 - $2000.

November 17. Started up Lazarus to take some driving pictures. This time, after he started, the starter bearing clicked back into place and that annoying rattling sound stopped. Now I can adjust the idle very low and that old 235 purrs like the proverbial kitten. So, I took some stills:

And then set up the camera for a movie, jumped in the cab and took a shot of me pulling Lazarus out of his parking spot.

I wanted to get a better piece of movie footage, so returned next day. November 18, weather is still nice in Colorado. Lazarus fired right up without starter fluid; I let him warm up for a few minutes, then set up the camera and got the following: Lazarus Drives!

Stills from the movie:





On the 19th I installed a new 12 volt coil I got on eBay for $10, and had a little problem with the starter bearing engaging. It seems to need to click into the flywheel gear otherwise nothing happens when you try to start it. I'm enivisioning driving Lazarus home, six miles to Windsor, on side roads at 6 a.m. or something. The brakes are a mystery due to the front passenger wheel bearing leaking - the master cylinder can't pump up any pressure (although it did, and held for days, before the wheel cylinder started leaking). If I can fix that, maybe I'll have a better sense for the overall situation on the brakes. Lazarus drives solid and reliably around the storage yard. At the end of the following movie, I popped the clutch out while he was still in first - accidentally. The engine didn't die, he just lurched and started creeping forward. That's the grandma gear for hauling heavy loads uphill.

Lazarus for a ride, November 19.

Oh, I tried the wipers, which are vacuum driven, and they work! Now, I'll see if I can register the title - a Missouri title tranferred through an intermediary buyer to me - which may be a little tricky. The ID # on the title was taken from the original engine, and therefore doesn;t match the current engine ID, nor does it match the VIN on the door plate. But I have a police officer signed VIN verification.

What a difference a day makes:

November 25. After a couple of cold days, down to 10 degrees one night, the sun came out and dried things off. I had some time to kill and went over and started Lazarus - fired right up. I let him warm up just a little. I had drained out the water - my temp[orary collant - so it wouldn't freeze and crack the block. So I didn't have much time before he started to overheat. I pulled him out of his spot, turned left, and drove him all the way around the far block of storage units. Got him up until second gear, no problem. Of course, I have no brakes so I took it easy and pulled him back into his spot before the engine got too hot.

Back home, I tried to start Clayton up. He started fine and ran for about 30 seconds then all of sudden just quit, as if a plug was pulled. I suspect water in the line, not sure. Spark is getting through to the negative terminal on the coil. But he won't even chug with starter fluid, so - weird.

November 27. Got Clayton started this morning. I think the starter is dying. Warmed him up, drove him back and forth a little. Brakes are working fine.

Got out to Lazarus by 1:00 p.m., and dove into removing the passenger-side wheel cylinder. All went well and I had removed the brake pads and the wheel cylinder in one hour. The rubber around the wheel cylinder had eroded and was leaking, so the pads were covered in brake fluid. I'm opting for a wheel cylinder rebuild kit ($4.00), and splurging on new front brake pads (shoes) - both sides. I'm guessing the driver's side might go next. Anyway, that was $40 total. They will arrive tomorrow - slated to be a cold day. Maybe Friday I can give it a shot. A new wheel cylinder will cost $34. I hope that will solve the brake problem. If not, I'll have to keep going around the wheels and fixing them till the thing will brake. I should replace the front shocks soon before I expect to drive Lazarus very far. A set of four vintage hubcaps, found on eBay, should be arriving soon.

December 1. Multiple missions accomplished!! I ordered the wheel cylinders (for the front) through Advance Auto Parts ($33 each). They arrived this morning and I went into Loveland to pick them up. The day looked decent - variable sun and clouds, no wind, high reaching only 38 degrees. Still, it was a very do-able outdoor work day. I got over to Lazarus in Severance about noon. Installing the wheel cylinder, the brake shoes, and cleaned the drums and regreased the bearings, all went pretty smoothly. The cleaning was a bit messy, and the brake cleaner stings cold on the fingers. I punched myself in the cheek with a pliers while trying to pull the brake shoe spring on, but that was the extent of unexpected dagnabits. I think it was about two o'clock when I got everything on and cleaned up, lowered Lazarus off the jack, and started him up. I had to bleed the front right brake, and I bled the back right for good measure, but very quickly I could tell that the brake pedal was holding firm (I used a board to hold the brake pedal down while I retightened the bleed screws). That would mean that at least the new wheel cylinder should be functional. So I pulled him out and down the gravel lane; he braked nicely! I hadn't replaced the water in the radiator, so the engine temp went up quick and I had to back him into his spot and turn him off. I ran over to Checker in Windsor and got two gallons of antifreeze. Mixed it with two gallons of water, and fired him up again. Now he idled smooth at 180°. There were now a few other people rummaging around their storage lockers, but I didn't care. I felt confident he would handle well and reliably for a little tour of the grounds. I pulled Lazarus around the whole block of storage garages, got him into second and third on a straight run, braked hard - he skidded to a stop! Backed up, braked, pulled around, got him up to second gear, braked hard again, and finally returned to his spot. No leaks from the other cylinders (yet). Lazarus lives! I should reconnect the speedometer cable and see if it works - odometer says 60,000.

So, I have a spare wheel cylinder for the left front, and shoes to go with it. I have a reconditioned master cylinder on the way. I should order some carb gaskets. I wonder if the gas tank is mucked up bad. I got a lot done in just over a month - almost all the critical and difficult things were done during this time.

Rundown on work done: replaced water pump, coil, plugs, wires, oil, antifreeze, points, rotor, condenser, starter, generator, voltage regulator, battery cable, starter linkages, clutch disc, radiator hoses, rekeyed ignition switch, front right wheel cylinder and brake shoes. (Not sure if the used generator and voltage regulator are functional.) Got a used set of four hub caps too.

December 2, 2007. Brakes are holding pressure. Let's go for a ride.

Drove Lazarus all over the yard, braking hard several times. Probably put a mile on him. Here's some pics with the new hubcaps:

December 5, 2007. More discoveries, progress, and developments. Today was a pretty nice day in Colorado - about 50 degrees, a little breezy. I first took off one of Lazarus's front shocks (not that hard) and then went to Checker, Advance, and finally Autozone to find the correct front shocks at the cheapest possible price - $16 each. Got back to Severance with them by about 1 p.m. By 2 they were installed. He started right up without starter fluid (in fact, I think he prefers it that way). Since putting the spring back on the starter lever, there's no more grinding or sticking of the starter gear. Just starts everytime, no noise, no problems. I drove him all over the yard for about twenty minutes. Engine temp maxed at 180 and stayed there. He did seem to handle a little better with the new front shocks in place, though the rough gravel roads aren't that pleasant to drive on. Had him into third gear a few times; brakes are holding nicely, though a very small amount of fluid seems to be leaking from the master cylinder. The radiator is still full, though some fluid seems to be slow dripping at the water pump gasket. The little gas can fixed inside the engine compartment holds about a gallon . I checked out the disconnected odometer cable from the transmission to the speedometer - seemed good so I reconnected it - and it works! It reads 60,397 miles. I am now seriously thinking of driving him the six miles back to Windsor, probably with someone following me, at sunrise. I really want to try to file his title now; hope it will be okay, then I can get insurance on him.

December 7-14. The freeze has hit; and the snow. Today, I could barely drive over to where Lazarus is parked in the storage yard, because of snow drifts. He's covered in icicles.This week is supposed to be consistently into the 40s, so maybe I can go for a ride before we leave for Iowa on the 23rd.